Those would need to be soldered first, the drive tested, then the shield/support soldered back on. The shield would need to be popped off the connector or otherwise moved out of the way so you can first get to the actual electrical connectors which I marked with blue dots. It looks like it might also connect at the green dot, but I can't tell without turning the board over. (I put four red dots on the image to show the soldering spots.) That way, as the drive's power cable is plugged and un-plugged, the tension & force is not on the electrical connections.
That is soldered to the circuit board for stability of the connector. If you look carefully, you will see there is a metal shield/support over the connector. Here's an annotated close up of your image that I posted: (A couple of small pieces of it might well work, but it would be better to get something from an electronics supply house so you know it won't damage the board or components. It's for plumbers soldering water pipes, but it works the same and gets the point across. There's a form of soldering heat dam at the link below. If you just go after it with a hot-ass soldering iron, you'll get it re-connected, but you will most likely kill one of those little micro-electronics pieces in the picture near the break.
I haven't fixed this particular problem, but I have repaired many similar connections. If it isn't an adapter and does need to be re-soldered, it will need to be done by someone who is experienced with board soldering and limiting the heat transferred beyond the soldering point. I have two Rosewill ext boxes I have been very impressed with. The next best solution would be to buy a replacement external case, you can get nice ones with a fan for a very reasonable price. I doubt you'll have much luck unless you speak Chinese. If so, try to contact the manufacturer of the external box and see if you can get the adapter. It looks to me like this is an adapter that plugs into the HD.
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